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La Manufacture Chablis Champs du Puits 2023 FRFLSH Baldoria flips the vermouth playbook resulting in a smooth Baldoria flips the vermouth playbook by marrying the structure of a rosso—those bitter wormwoods and tannic depths from Nebbiolo—with the dry acidity of a white vermouth underpinned by electric acidity and structural grip keeping the wine transparent without stripping it bare Benjamin Laroche — working outside his family's much larger operation — ferments this mostly in stainless steel with a portion in old barrels
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